Description

The present watch is the De Bethune DB28XS Steel Wheels, a refined expression of the maison’s signature DB28 architecture rendered entirely in grade 5 titanium. At 38.7 mm in diameter and a mere 8 mm thick, the case exemplifies De Bethune’s commitment to elegant proportions and material mastery. The polished titanium surfaces are complemented by the brand’s patented floating lugs—also in titanium and polished to a mirror finish—which allow the watch to sit naturally on the wrist while maintaining the case’s architectural integrity. The crown is positioned at 12 o’clock, a signature De Bethune detail that reinforces the watch’s refined, dress-watch character. Sapphire crystals front and back, both treated with double anti-reflective coating, provide clarity and protection, while water resistance is rated to 30 meters.

The dial is conceived as a study in titanium craftsmanship. A polished titanium base is anchored by a delta-shaped barrel bridge—a signature De Bethune element—rendered in titanium with a distinctive microlight decoration. The bridge features sandblasted and polished chamfers that catch light subtly, adding dimensionality without visual noise. Heat-blued and polished hour and minute hands deliver warmth and legibility, while a heat-blued titanium balance wheel is prominently displayed at 6 o’clock, serving as both functional component and visual focal point. A peripheral chapter ring frames the dial, set with heat-blued and polished spherical titanium hour markers that echo the refined finishing language throughout.

At the heart of the DB28XS beats the in-house calibre DB2115V13, a manually wound movement of exceptional sophistication. Comprising 241 parts and 36 jewels, the movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and is powered by twin barrels that deliver an impressive 6-day power reserve. The blued titanium balance wheel features grey gold inserts for visual contrast and enhanced performance, while a silicon escape wheel and balance spring with flat terminal curve underscore De Bethune’s commitment to modern materials and traditional finishing. Functions include hours, minutes, and a linear power reserve indicator visible on the caseback.

In the DB28XS Steel Wheels, De Bethune achieves a rare synthesis: a monochromatic titanium palette elevated through meticulous hand-finishing, a movement of mechanical purity, and proportions that feel both contemporary and timeless. This is watchmaking for the discerning collector who values restraint, material integrity, and the quiet confidence of true horological mastery.

De Bethune – bio

Created in 2002 by David Zanetta, a collector of vintage timepieces and art, and Denis Flageollet, a genius watchmaker who started his career restoring vintage timepieces and developing extremely complicated movements for others, De Bethune has gained a reputation amongst collectors as one of the originators of creative contemporary independent watchmaking. Since its creation, De Bethune has given birth to 30 in-house calibers, a dozen patent registrations and over 18 world premiere innovations. An amazing track-record for such a young brand.