Description

The present watch is the De Bethune GMT Starry Varius, reference DB25VGTIS3, an exceptional expression of the manufacture’s poetic approach to world‑time horology, where mechanical innovation, sculptural design, and celestial inspiration converge. Housed in polished grade 5 titanium, the DB25VGTIS3 balances technical sophistication with refined elegance, offering a distinctive interpretation of the GMT complication through De Bethune’s unmistakable aesthetic language.

The 42 mm case, measuring 11.8 mm in thickness, is crafted entirely in polished titanium and fitted with elegant ogival lugs, ensuring a fluid, ergonomic presence on the wrist. Sapphire crystals with double anti‑reflective coating are fitted front and back, each rated to 1,800 Vickers hardness, allowing unobstructed views of both the complex dial architecture and the exquisitely finished movement. The open caseback reveals De Bethune’s hallmark mechanical artistry in full.

The dial is a multi‑layered composition of curved rings and sculptural elements, designed to convey information with clarity while creating visual depth. A silver‑toned curved date ring with polished and blued markers frames the display, complemented by a silver curved hour ring and a rose‑gold curved minute ring. A 24‑hour sub‑dial in silver with two‑tone markings enables a second time zone indication, while the central dial is constructed in two parts: a blue polished titanium base with white‑gold pins, paired with radiant silver microlight decoration and a sunburst insert in polished rose gold. This interplay of metals, textures, and curvature gives the dial a dynamic, almost astronomical presence.

Time is indicated by hand‑polished, flamed‑blued steel curved hands, while the date is shown via a matching blued hand with a polished tip. A signature De Bethune feature—the microsphere day/night indicator—is rendered in 5N rose gold and blued steel, using the same decorative technique as the maison’s spherical moon phase. This patented element adds both poetic charm and practical legibility.

Powering the watch is a manual‑winding mechanical calibre, developed and manufactured in‑house. Comprising 368 components and 40 jewels, the movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a five‑day power reserve, ensured by De Bethune’s self‑regulating twin‑barrel system. The movement is adorned with a curved mirror‑polished steel plate, a mirror‑polished steel barrel bridge decorated with Côtes de Bethune and microlight finishing, hand‑snailed barrels, and meticulously chamfered and polished steel components.

Technically, the calibre showcases De Bethune’s most advanced innovations, including a titanium balance wheel with white‑gold inserts optimized for temperature stability and air penetration, a proprietary De Bethune balance spring with flat terminal curve, a silicon escape wheel, and the patented triple pare‑chute shock‑absorbing system. These features underline the brand’s relentless pursuit of chronometric excellence.

In the DB25 GMT Starry Varius, De Bethune offers far more than a dual‑time watch. It is a sculptural, celestial instrument—where avant‑garde engineering, artisanal finishing, and poetic time display are unified in a timepiece that reflects the brand’s singular vision of contemporary haute horlogerie.

De Bethune – bio

Created in 2002 by David Zanetta, a collector of vintage timepieces and art, and Denis Flageollet, a genius watchmaker who started his career restoring vintage timepieces and developing extremely complicated movements for others, De Bethune has gained a reputation amongst collectors as one of the originators of creative contemporary independent watchmaking. Since its creation, De Bethune has given birth to 30 in-house calibers, a dozen patent registrations and over 18 world premiere innovations. An amazing track-record for such a young brand.